MPG’s Gargano trip

Meeting other participants on the flight from Gatwick to Naples was a great way to start the trip and, once our guide Stefano had cheerfully rounded us up at the airport, we set off in a comfortable air-conditioned coach driven expertly by smiling Giuseppe. We all felt immediately that we were in good hands.

As we crossed undulating farmland to the eastern side of the ‘boot’ of Italy, suddenly a large and unexpectedly high plateau was visible. It was a surprise, as I hadn’t realised the Gargano promontory has altitude: the highest point is 1,065m (3,494 feet) above sea level. This karst (limestone) spur is unsuitable for intensive agriculture, so perfect habitat for the huge variety of native wild plants it sustains, including several endemic species.

A quick stop en route to Rodi (a steep seaside town on the north coast, where we stayed the first three nights) gave us a close-up glimpse of a fine Paeonia peregrina in bloom.

Each day we would breakfast at the hotel and be ready to depart at 09.30 for the day’s adventure. Wearing name badges was most helpful for everyone at the start of the week. Armed with the smaller version of his “orchid bible”, Stefano took us to spots he knew would enable us to see wildflowers close up: bee orchids, orchids with flower spikes of all sizes, irises, tulips, cyclamen and much more – including hyacinths, which we also ate for lunch (fear not, no wild ones were harmed: these were lampascioni, pickled hyacinth bulbs bought in jars from the local supermarkets).

Otherwise, at lunchtime we tucked into picnics of bread, sliced meats, cheese, cherry tomatoes and various other salady bits, with something sweet to nibble at the end. Thanks to Faith for sorting out the victuals! The lunch stops were often in beautiful beech forest glades bedecked with wild flowers and serenaded by warblers and other birds.

On the fourth day we transferred to the south of the Gargano and for the rest of the trip stayed in a larger and busier hotel in Monte Sant’Angelo. As its name implies, this picturesque old pilgrimage town (devoted to the Archangel Michael) is high up and gave us views down to Manfredonia on the coast and beyond.

We experienced only one day of drenching rain during the week and a couple of mornings of incredibly thick mist. We took the opportunity to visit monuments of note when the weather was at its worst.

We experienced only one day of drenching rain during the week and a couple of mornings of incredibly thick mist. We took the opportunity to visit monuments of note when the weather was at its worst.

And all the time Stefano was unfailingly helpful, naming species, trying to drum their characteristics into our heads, and explaining the geological, botanical, historical and political context of the wonders around us.

Text: Lucy de Castro and Nick Morgan