Autumn jewels of the Taurus – SW Turkey
20 – 27 October 2024
Our team was headed by the ‘master of ceremonies’ Başak Gardner, a super expert on all things floral, overseeing all our needs and conducting us through the impeccably managed and organised days. Başak, with her Rossetti profile and crimson nails, would stride energetically through the landscape, keeping an eye on her small flock as they scattered around in search of their various specimens. She identified, discussed and presented everything brought to her, and would reveal with pride the mighty plane trees, oaks, cedars of Lebanon and also the tiny and elusive flora native to her country. She states categorically that the wildflowers of Turkey are obviously some of the most varied and perfect of the planet.
Onur Yurtbaşı was our History Guide, an essential part of the team and quietly supportive, indicating various plants when they had not been spotted and essentially keeping everything ticking over as required. Being part of the team, he helped to prepare the picnic lunches and clear up afterwards. He would step forward into centre stage at all the historic sites and talk us through their history and significance. He was always available with more information when required. Historically, this part of Turkey was dominated by the Hittites, Phrygians, Lycians and then the Greeks and Romans. Now mostly visible are the Lycian sarcophagi, wall tombs cheek by jowl with the great Roman Theatres and Towns.
Ali May was our driver – physically imposing, a başpehlivan perhaps, he slung our bags with ease into the back of the bus, helped to prepare our lunches, and went around serving drinks, giving us a choice of orange or peach or a mixture of both. Smiling, courteous, helpful and an amazing driver. He spent hours negotiating the winding dirt roads up and around the mountains. It requires slow concentrated driving, over ruts, large stones and some badly maintained tracks. He seemed indefatigable.
My account is led by the excellent day-by-day information provided in advance to MPG.
I must set the scene: the hotels were on the coast, and sometimes we were able to get a swim in in the evening, but as the sun set at 6 it was often too dark. Every day was super sunny and warm on the coast and the sky brilliant blue, the mornings chilly, the mountains chilly and the evenings chilly; layers were needed.
Breakfast at 8. Lots of local jams and fruit preserved in syrup. Fabulous yoghurt, a choice of cheeses, various breads, doughnuts, pancakes and cakes, coffee and tea, and of course the eggs inevitably hardboiled. We were encouraged quietly to take one for later use in our lunches. They would be mixed with mayo and tuna…delicious.
At 9 o’clock we would meet at the bus and be off, stopping at the various sites. Başak would ensure that we would never go hungry or thirsty, greeting us as we got off the bus with some local snack. We would get more when piling back on later.
The adventure started on the 21 October, Day 2, Asas mountain and Simena.
Quercus coccifera
Capparis spinosa
Olea
Sternbergia clusiana
Sternbergia lutea
Leaving Kas to travel to Simena, we go in search of the first finds of the trip, each an opportunity for discussion and identification and comparison. The terra rossa soil is in rich contrast to the sun bleached rock. Bouncing along the coast road, a view of the sea with dark islands contrasts with the sun-silvered sea and deep bays breaking up the coastline. Each day we would drive along the tarmacked roads heading into the mountains and then turn off onto the dirt roads that wound up and up, sometimes on hairpin bends, sometimes following the mountain sides, flanked by forests and rock.
The first morning we’re up the hills Colchicum hunting, and then the ensuing formal dance of the participants as they wait politely to bag each particular specimen, providing shade when necessary and discussing the finer points. Close encounters on knees, bodies curled over the delicate prize aiming for the perfect shot, and then the eventual comparisons.
Each day we had a picnic lunch prepared by the team: fresh salads, egg mayo, tuna, various meats, cheeses and wonderful bread. For dessert fruit, the essential halva and a new discovery favoured by Başak of chocolate nut spread with cheese…an acquired taste.
After lunch was more colchicum hunting, despite the fact that some perfect specimens were available close to the bus.
In the afternoon we went to Xanthos, where we saw sarcophagi on pedestals, Lycean house-type tombs of varying heights with protruding stone beams. The sides were carved into rectangles which looked as though they were reproducing windows.
One of the most famous monuments is the Harpy Tomb – it is believed that the winged figures are Sirens who carry dead souls to the Underworld. The carved frieze around the top is a copy of the original which is in the British Museum.
Xanthos was referred to in the Iliad by Homer. In ancient times Xanthos was the residence of the King Lobates, and it was one of the most powerful cities of the time and the capital of the Lycian Union. The famous Xanthos Obelisk or Stele (5th century BC) is a giant slab of stone and has the longest inscription in the Lycian language of 250 lines. The stele has three scripts on it but the Lycian is insufficient to make the decoding possible (which must be frustrating, considering that the Rosetta stone has also three different scripts).
We saw the most wonderful ancient olive trees with their trunks hollowed out and spreading and sprouting. And importantly, we also saw a Testudo (tortoise), a rare manifestation of the elusive wildlife of this part of Turkey.
Down in the valleys at sea level is where huge tomato production is conducted under acres of polytunnels.
We returned to the hotel and met at 7.30pm for a sumptuous supper. As we were all very hungry, we partook as much as possible from the various delicious mezze ordered by Başak, and then had to eat our main course…
There was a WhatsApp group shared by us all – during the day photographs were posted so that by the evening there was an impressive collection contributed by all. Sara Robinson likes to post close-ups that illustrate the delicate details and colours of the various flowers really impressively, not to overlook those posted by Diane Clement, Jane Furse, Beatrice Castelein and of course Başak. It was so nice at the end of the day to be to be reminded about what we had seen so beautifully and carefully shot.
22 October, Day 3, Sinekçibeli Geçidi Pass, Yesil Gol and Ordubek
Colchicum variegatum
Spiranthes spiralis
Quercus macrolepis
Sternbergia clusiana
Crocus pallasii
Euphorbia kotschyana
Yesil Gol:
Crocus cancellatus subsp. lycius
Cyclamen alpinum
We set off and headed for the hills and mountains, and the first flower to be spied was the modest delicate spike of Spiranthes spirales. I was told that it is the only autumn flowering orchid to be found here; I took note. The next stop was in an assembly of ancient oaks, Quercus macrolepis, crusty bark and the light catching lobed leaves on long bendy branches.
We stopped on the road to find some Sternbergia, and then another, and then another, or two or more in a neglected almond orchard. And some Colchicum. And as ever a collection of rubbish the same as can be found everywhere. The forest then transitions to extensive areas of cedar of Lebanon trees.
Up almost above the treeline we disembarked, and walked up a hill to then discover a beautiful valley. On the other side rose Akdağ, also known as the White Mountain due to its white flanks. On the floor of the valley is Yesil Gol (green) lake (though I would say that it’s deeper areas were the colour of jade), the perfect site for a picnic. There were white-tailed wagtails bobbing around the water’s edge and the tintinnabulation of the bells of a small herd of goats. Başak told us that the place has a spiritual significance for local people – it certainly is a profoundly beautiful and peaceful location. We were approximately two thousand metres above sea level and were reminded that much of these mountains are covered with snow in the winter.
We drove down along the valley next to the Bey mountains through fruit orchards, and finished on the coast in the village of Cirali. Our hotel was in a large garden of citrus and pomegranate trees, and the rooms in various chalets were slightly old fashioned, favouring a brown wood finish throughout. Though deeply quiet at night, we were woken by a cock crow and various sounds off.
23 October, Day 4, Alacadag, and Limyra
Crocus mathewii
Coronillla emerus
Quercus coccifera
Quercus infectoria
Galanthus peshmenii
Verbascum sinuatum
Verbascum levanticum
Cyclamen maritimum
Olea europaea
Pinus brutia
We followed a deep ravine up the mountain along the river bed, with the hillsides covered with Pinus brutia. The bus continued to climb Tahtalı Dağı, 2265m, also known as Lycian Olympus, and according to Başak a hotspot for 900 species. We got out and walked up the road to see a 2000-year old Platanus orientalis tree and on the way there were clumps of Galanthus peshmenii. Further up the road there was another equally ancient plane tree, and if they really do date back 2000 years, they have presided over the expansion and eventual decline of the Roman Empire, Christianity, Byzantium and the establishment of Islam. We picnicked in a forest of cedars of Lebanon and later walked to a place surrounded by rugged mountains with a long view down to the sea, framed by perfectly shaped trees.
Back to the bus and down through ancient forests of cedars and juniper, their branches thick with lichen.
Stopping at another ancient plane tree, we decided to see how many of us were required to encircle it. I think it took all of us including Onur and we have a photograph to prove it.
On to the town of Phaselis, originally a Lycian port founded by colonists from Rhodes as early as the 7th century BC. Its wealth came from the shipment of timber, rose oil and perfume – the town’s situation with its natural harbours made it a perfect trading city.
The town is amazing, and according to Onur the government is pouring a great deal of money into its restoration. It has a restored road which was originally the colonnaded main street. At the end of this, above the harbour, was a triumphal gate built for the Emperor Hadrian’s visit in AD129, which links two of the three harbours. On each side of the road were various shops, baths and a theatre which still has the wall that would have been at the back of the stage helping the voices of the actors reach up to the thousands that would have been seated there. We tested the acoustics…they are still fine… The necropolis has banks of cyclamen everywhere.
We then travelled back to Cirali, the hotel and another culinary feast.
October 24, Day 5, Alcadag, Limyra
Pinus pinea
Pancratium maritimum
Colchicum baytopiorum
Crocus cancellatus subsp. pamphylicus
Crocus asumaniae
Biarum pyrami
Crocus speciosus
Cyclamen cilicium
Crocus pallasii subsp. dispathaceus
We travelled by motorway between hills of Pinus brutia with their slender trunks creating dappled light. We had a view of the valley with acres of polytunnels cultivating peppers, lots of new-build houses with the hot water tanks and solar panels on the roofs. We continued past a roundabout decorated with a large trellis hung with large tomatoes indicating the source of local wealth. One of the first stops was to see the elusive Biarum marmarisense, attained on my hands and knees up a steep slope. Back on the bus, up a very bumpy road through woods of Thuja occidentalis and Acer, to the top of the mountain and to a flimsily built village used as the summer camp for the herders when they bring their flocks of sheep up in the summer. We ate lunch with a view of the sea and islands and Alacadağ. Ali put a put a piece of music on the radio of Aytaç Doğan playing a kanun – it was perfect for the time and place .
October 25, Day 6, Termessos
Cyclamen graecum
Colchicum baytopiorum
Pancratium maritimum
The first stop was a turtle beach to see Pinus pinea. There were four or five major trees and a quantity of young trees all tragically suffering from the same fungal infection that kills them from the inside out, their branches falling away as the core is no longer able to sustain them. At the base of one tree was a late flowering slightly faded sea daffodil, a fitting floral tribute the dying tree. Then on to Termessos.
Photo by Beatrice
1000 metres up deep into the Taurus mountains is the Güllük Mountain National Park and the ruins of Termessos, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The end to its prosperity and existence was due to an earthquake that destroyed the aqueduct supplying drinking water. The exact date is not known but by the 5th century AD the city was already deserted.
It is a walled site that is overwhelmingly imposing due to the scale and the massive quality of it’s construction in dressed and carved stone. It required a determined walk up to the main site through oak woods over broken carved stone, between trees, over roots, and up and up. At the top, the main curtain wall rose above us constructed of massive stone blocks truly built by giants…
The theatre dominates the hill, and when seated there are views behind the stage across to the mountainside and then, to the right, down the valley to the sea.
The long walk down was past the necropolis mostly of Lycean sarcophagi in their house-type form, and then past tombs carved into the rock face some with the predictable pediment and pilasters each side.
We had lunch in the car park where we were joined by a Vulpes vulpes (red fox) who stole a picnic plate which was speedily rescued by Ali. Sara took a great photo! And then on to the Hotel in Side.
October 26, Day 7, Akseki Road
Cyclamen cilicium
Crocus cancellatus
Quercus cerris
Crocus speciosus
Pistacia terebinthus
Acer
Abies cilicica
Juniper drupacea
We drove inland onto the Anatolian plateau. The first stop was to see a spectacular Biarum with its deep maroon sail. Also encountered was a wild pear – it’s fruits were scientifically tested and declared excellent for jelly. Crocus cancellatus and Crocus speciosus found. Diane photographs everything several times, Jane is equally methodical, Beatrice is a dendrologist and John also knows everything – they were all extremely patient explaining the names to me. Sara takes photographs and then sits in deep concentration and does magical things with them.
We travelled on past many Pinus brutia, elegant, fluffy and graceful in the wind, Pinus nigra hung about with mistletoe and Quercus cerris with its long-lobed and almost velvety leaves.
Lunch was on the high mediterranean plateau above the winter snow line in an alpine meadow of sage green grass and grey rocks, the surrounding hills covered with black pine, poplar, juniper and oak. The air was sharp and scented with thyme.
Then back to the hotel for a swim in the sea and a meeting for our last meal together.
On the way back we stopped for tea, and over to one side was a bluff covered with Cedrus lebani, Abies cilicica, Pinus brutia, Quercus cerris, Styrax officinalis, Ostrya carpinifolia, Viscum album and Juniperus oxycedrus. This plant list was given to me by Diane – I needed it because these trees with their different greens, and with the deciduous ones turning to their autumn colours, was everything that brings joy to the traveller and those who take pleasure in the natural world.
The last stop was to see Dianthus elegans, large bunches of sharp pink flowers. When looked at closely, they have mauve anthers and tiny silver tufts. A suitably colourful note to end on.
The Temple of Apollo, Side, 27 October, my last day.
P.S. Photograph by Diane who kindly pointed out that my hat decoration, which had in the past been cruelly mocked by family, very closely resembled and was probably possibly inspired by the noble acorn of a Quercus macrolepis.
Report and photos courtesy of Suzanne O’Farrell