Autumn jewels of the Taurus – SW Turkey
20 – 27 October 2024
The team headed by the ‘master of ceremonies’ Basak Gardner super expert on all things floral. Overseeing all our needs and conducting us through the impeccably managed and organised days. Basak with her Rossetti profile and crimson nails would stride energetically through the landscape keeping an eye on her small flock, as they scattered around in search of their various specimens. She identified discussed and presented everything brought to her and would reveal with pride the mighty plane trees, oaks, cedars of Lebanon and also the tiny and elusive flora native to her country and she states categorically that the wildflowers of Turkey are obviously some of the most varied and perfect of the planet.
Onur Yurtbaşı the History Guide an essential part of the team was quietly supportive..indicating various plants when they had not been spotted and essentially keeping everything ticking over as required. Being part of the team he helped prepare the picnic lunches and clear up afterwards. He would step forward into centre stage at all the historic sites and talk us through its history and significance and was always available with more information when required. The history of this part of Turkey was dominated by the Hittites, Phrygians, Lycians and then the Greeks and Romans. What is now mostly visible are the Lycian Sarcophagi, wall tombs cheek by jowl with the great Roman Theatres and Towns.
Ali May the driver. physically imposing a başpehlivan perhaps, he slung with ease our bags into the back of the bus, helped to prepare our lunches went around serving drinks giving us a choice of orange or peach or a mixture of both. Smiling courteous helpful and an amazing driver. He spent hours negotiating the winding dirt roads up and around the mountains, it requires slow concentrated driving over ruts large stones and some badly maintained tracks. He seemed indefatigable.
My account has been led by the excellent day by day information provided in advance to MPG
I must set the scene the hotels were on the coast and sometimes we were able to get a swim in in the evening but as the sun set at 6 it was often too dark. Every day was super sunny and warm on the coast and the sky brilliant blue, the mornings chilly, the mountains chilly and the evenings chilly, layers were needed.
Breakfast at 8. Lots of local jams and fruit preserved in syrup. Fab yoghurt, choice of cheeses various breads doughnuts pancakes and cakes coffee and tea..and of course the eggs inevitably hardboiled, we were encouraged quietly to take one for later use in our lunches. They would be mixed with mayo and tuna..delicious.
9 oclock we would meet at the bus and be off. Stopping at the various sites. Barsac would ensure that we would never go hungry or thirsty greeting us as we got off the bus with some local snack, and we would get more when piling back on later.
The adventure started on the 21 October, Day 2 Asas mountain and Simena.
Quercus coccifera
Cyprus spinosa
Olea
Sternbergia Clusiana
Sternbergia lutea
Leaving Kas to Simena we go in search of the first finds of the trip, each an opportunity for discussion and identification and comparison. The Terra rossa soil in rich contrast to the sun bleached rock. Bouncing along the coast road a view of the sea with dark islands contrasting with the sun silvered sea and deep bays breaking up the coastline. Each day we would drive along the tarmacked roads heading into the mountains and then turn off onto the dirt roads that wound up and up sometimes on hair pin bends, sometimes following the mountain sides, flanked by forests and rock.
The first morning up the hills colchicum hunting, and then the ensuing formal dance of the participants as they wait politely to bag each particular specimen, providing shade when necessary and discussing the finer points. Close encounters on knees, bodies curled over the delicate prize aiming for the prefect shot and then the eventual comparisons
Each day we had a picnic lunch prepared by the team, fresh salads, egg mayo and tuna and various meats, cheeses wonderful bread, and for dessert fruit, the essential halva and a new discovery favoured by Basak of chocolate nut spread with cheese…an acquired taste
Post lunch more colchicum hunting, despite the fact that some prefect specimens were available close to the bus.
In the afternoon we went to Xanthos where we saw sarcophagi on pedestals Lycean house type tombs of varying heights with stone beams protruding. The sides were carved into rectangles which looked as if they were reproducing windows
One of the most famous monuments is the Harpy Tomb, it is believe that the winged figures are Sirens who carry dead souls to the Underworld. The carved frieze around the top is a copy of the original which is in the British Museum ….Hmmmmmm
Xanthos was referred to in the “Iliad” of Homer. In ancient times Xanthos was the residence of the King Lobates, it was one of the most powerful cities of the time and the capital of the Lycian Union. The famous Xanthos Obelisk (V century BC) is a giant slab of stone and has the longest inscription in the Lycian language of 250 lines. The stele has 3 scripts on it but the Lycian is insufficient to make the decoding possible which must be frustrating, considering that the Rosetta stone has also 3 different scripts.
Saw the most wonderful ancient olive trees their trunks hollowed out and spreading and sprouting. And importantly a Testudo Turcorem a rare manifestation of the elusive wildlife of this part of Turkey.
Down in the valleys at sea level is where the huge tomato production is conducted under acres of polytunnels.
We returned to the Hotel and met at 7,30 for a sumptuous supper, As we were all very hungry we partook as much as possible from the various delicious mezze ordered by Basak and then had to eat our main course…
There was a Whats App address shared by us all and during the day photographs were posted so by the evening there was an impressive collection contributed by all, Sara Robinson likes to post close ups that illustrate the delicate details and colours of the various flowers really impressive, not to overlook those posted by Diane Clement, Jane Furse, Beatrice Castelein and of course Barsac. It was so nice at the end of the day to be to be reminded about what we had seen so beautifully and carefully shot.
22 October day 3 Sinekcibeli Pass Yesigiol and Ordubek
Colchicum Variegatum
Spiranthes spiralis
Quercus macrolepsis
Sternbergia clusiana
Crocus Pallasii
Euphorbia kotschyana
Yesilgol
Crocus cancellatus ssp lycius
Cuclamen Alpinum leaves
We set off and headed for the hills and mountains and the first flower to be spied was the modest delicate spike of Spiranthes spirales I was told that it is the only autumn flowering orchid to be found here, I took note, the next stop was in an assembly of ancient oaks Quercus macropolis crusty bark and the light catching lobed leaves on long bendy branches.
Stopped on the road to find some Sternbergia and then another and then another or two or more in a neglected almond orchard. And some Colichicum. And as ever a collection of rubbish the same as can be found everywhere a blight of the C21. The forest then transitions to extensive areas of Cedar of Lebanon
Up almost above the treeline, we disembarked, walked up a hill to then discover a beautiful valley, on the otherside rose Akdağ, also known as the White Mountain due to its white flanks on the floor of the valley is Yesil Gol (green) lake though I would say that its deeper areas were the colour of jade, the perfect site for a picnic. There were white tailed wag tails bobbing around the waters edge and the tintinnabulation of the bells of a small herd of goats. Barsac told us that the place has a spiritual significance for local people it certainly is a profoundly beautiful and peaceful. We were 2000 metres approx. above sea level and were reminded that much of these mountains are covered with snow in the winter.
We drove down along the valley next to the Bey mountains through fruit orchards and finished on the coast in the village of Cirali. The Hotel Gran? was in a large garden of citrus and pomegranate trees, the rooms in various chalets were slightly old fashioned favouring the brown wood finish throughout. Deeply quiet at night we were woken by cock crow and various sounds off.
23 October day 4 Alacadag and Limyra
Crocus Mathew
Coronillla emerus
Quercus coccifera
Quercus infectoria
Galanthus peshmenii
Verbascum sinuatum
Verbascum levanthium
Cyclamen maritinum
Olea europaea
Pinus Brutia
Followed a deep ravine up the mountain along the river bed. The hillsides covered with Pinus Brutia . The bus continued to climb Tahtalı Dağı, 2265 m also known as Lycian Olympus and according to Barsac a hotspot for 900 species. We got out and walked up the road to see a 2000 year old Platanus orientalis and on the way there were clumps of Galanthus peshmenii. Up the road there was another equally ancient plane and if they really do date back 2000 years they have presided over the expansion and eventual decline of the Roman Empire, Christianity, Byzantium and the establishment of Islam etc. We picnicked in a forest of Cedars of Lebanon and later walked to a place surrounded by rugged mountains with a long view down to the sea framed by perfectly shaped trees.
Back to the bus and down through ancient forests of cedars and juniper their branches thick with lichen
Stopping at another ancient plane tree it was decided to see how many of us were required to encircle it, I think it took all of us including Onur and we have a photograph to prove it.
to the town of Phaselis originally a Lycian port founded by colonists from Rhodes as early as the 7th century BC. Its wealth came from the shipment of timber, rose oil and perfume. The towns situation with its natural harbours made it a perfect trading city
The necropolis has banks of cyclamen everywhere The town is amazing and according to Onur the government is pouring a great deal of money into its restauration. It has a restored road which originally was the colonnaded main street which had at the end above the harbour a triumphal gate built for the Emperor Hadrian’s visit in AD 129. It links 2 of the three harbours. Each side of the road were various shops baths and a theatre which still has the wall that would have been at the back of the stage helping the voices of the actors reach up to the thousands that would have been seated there..we tested the acoustics…they are still fine..
Back to Cirali, the Hotel and another culinary feast.
October 24 Day 5 Alcadag Limyra
Pinus pinea
Pancratium maritimum
Colchiicum baytopiorum
October 26 Day 6 Crocus Cancellatus ssp Ppamphylicus
Crocus asumaniae
Biarum pyramid
Crocus Speciosus
Cyclamen Cilicicum
Crocus pallasii ssp dispathaceous
Motorway between hills of Pinus Brutia with their slender trunks creating dappled light. View of the valley with acres of poly tunnels cultivating peppers. Lots of new build with the hot water tanks and solar panels on the roofs. Past a rounabout decorated with large trellis hung with large tomatoes indicating the source of local wealth. One of the first stops was to see the elusive Biarum marmarisense, attained on my hands and knees up a steep slope. Back on the bus up a very bumpy road through woods of cedar ostia and acer to the top of the mountain, to a flimsily built village used as the summer camp for the herders when they bring their flocks of sheep up in the summer. Ate lunch with a view of the sea and islands and Alacadag. Ali put a put a piece of music on the radio of Aytac Dogan playing a kanun it was perfect for the time and place .
October 25 Day 6 Termessos
Cyclamen graecum
Colchicum baytopiorum
Pancratium maritimum
First stop to a turtle beach to see a Pinus pinea, there were 4 or 5 major trees and a quantity of young trees all tragically suffering from the same fungal infection that kills them from the inside out, there branches falling away as the core is no longer able to sustain them. At the base of one tree was a late flowering slightly faded sea daffodil, a fitting floral tribute the dying tree. Then on to Termessos
Photo by Beatrice
1000 meters up deep into the Taurus mountains – Güllük Mountain National Park and the ruins of Termessos, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The end to its prosperity and existence was due to an earthquake that destroyed the aqueduct supplying drinking water. The exact date is not known but by 5th century AD the city was already deserted.
It is a walled site that is overwhelmingly imposing due to the scale and the massive quality of its construction in dressed and carved stone. It required a determined walk up to the main site through oak woods over broken carved stone between trees over roots and up and up . At the top, the main curtain wall rose above us constructed of massive stone blocks truly built by giants…
The theatre dominates the hill and when seated there are views behind the stage across to the mountainside and then to the right, down the valley to the sea.
On the long walk down past the necropolis mostly of Lycean sarcophagi in their house type form and then past tombs carved into the rock face some with the predictable pediment and pilasters each side.
Lunch in the car park where we were joined by a Turcorem vulpes vulpes who stole a picnic plate which was rescued speedily by Ali. Sara took a great photo
On to the Hotel in Side
October 26 Day 7 Akseki Road
Cyclamen cilicicum
Crocus cancellous
Quercus cerris
Crocus speciosus
Pistaccia terebrinthus
Maples
Abies cilicica
Juniper drupacea
We drove inland onto the Anatolian plateau. The first stop was to see a spectacular Biarum with its deep maroon sail. Also encountered was a wild pear, its fruits were scientifically tested and declared excellent for jelly. Crocus Cancellous and Crocus speciosus found, Diane photographs everything several times, Jane is equally methodical, Beatrice is a denderologist and John also knows everything, they were all extremely patient explaining all the names to me. Sara takes the photographs and then sits and in deep concentration and does magical things with them.
We travelled on past many Pinus Brutia elegant and fluffy and graceful in the wind and Pinus Nigra hung about with mistletoe and Quertcus cerris with its long lobed and almost velvety leaves.
Lunch was on the high mediterranean plateau above the winter snow line in an alpine meadow of sage green grass and grey rocks, the surrounding hills covered with black pine, poplar, juniper and oak.
The air was sharp and scented with thyme.
Back to the hotel, a swim in the sea and a meeting for our last meal together.
On the way back we stopped for tea and over on the far side was a bluff covered with Cedrus Lebanie, Abies cilicica, Pinus Brutia, Quercus Cerris, Styrax officinalis, Ostrya Carpinifolia, Viscum album, Juniperus Oxycedrus. This proper list was given to me by Diane I needed it because these trees with their different greens and with the deciduous ones turning to their autumn colours was everything that brings joy to the traveller and those who take pleasure in the natural world.
The last stop was to see Dianthus Elegans..large bunches of sharp pink flowers, when looked at closely they have mauve anthers and tiny silver tufts. A suitably colourful note to end on.
The Temple of Apollo. Side 27 October My last day.
PS Photographed by Diane who kindly pointed that my hat decoration, which had in the past been cruelly mocked by family, very closely resembled and even was probably inspired by the noble acorn of a Quercus Macrolepis.
Report and photos courtesy of Suzanne O’Farrell